很多新手买瓷器,第一眼看“旧不旧”。但“旧”是可以做出来的,而且成本很低。这篇讲五种最常见的做旧手法,看完你至少知道该往哪里看。

先说明:本文讲的是常见做旧手法的识别思路,不是鉴定结论。最终判断仍需结合胎、釉、款、画工、来源综合看。

一、酸洗:把新釉“洗”成哑光

用氢氟酸等弱酸腐蚀釉面,让新瓷的玻璃光泽变哑,模仿出土或传世的老化感。

  • 老瓷:光泽柔和但有“活光”,釉面有自然磨损的深浅变化
  • 酸洗:整体发哑、发涩,像蒙了一层雾,没有局部差异

二、土沁:用胶水加泥做“出土感”

把胶水、泥土、铁锈混合涂抹在器物表面或缝隙,做出“土咬”“铁锈沁”的效果。

  • 老瓷:沁色深入釉下或胎骨,边界自然,有层次
  • 土沁:浮在表面,用指甲或竹签能刮下,遇水容易化开

三、磨底:把新底磨成“使用痕”

用砂纸、磨石把底足的锐利边缘磨圆,模仿长期放置的磨损。

  • 老瓷:底足磨损不均匀,有自然弧度和包浆
  • 磨底:磨痕方向一致、过于均匀,露出的胎色发白、发干

四、接底:老底接新身,或新底接老身

把老瓷的底足切下来,接到新做的器身上,或者反过来。这是最隐蔽、也最伤价值的一种。

  • 看接缝:底足与器身的釉色、胎色是否一致
  • 看过渡:接缝处常有打磨痕迹或色差
  • 看重量:上下手感是否一致,接底常头重脚轻

五、后加彩:素器加彩,或补彩

在老的素胎上加彩,或者在残彩上补画,冒充完整彩瓷。

  • 看彩料:后加彩的彩料常与老彩料质感不同,发亮或发涩
  • 看笔触:后加部分笔法常与原件不搭
  • 看釉面:用放大镜看彩下有无老化的自然开片或磨损

六、五种手法一览表

手法 目的 破绽
酸洗去新釉光泽整体发哑、无层次
土沁做出土感浮于表面、可刮下
磨底做使用痕磨痕均匀、胎色发白
接底老底配新身接缝色差、手感不一
后加彩补全或提价彩料质感、笔触不搭
实战提醒:一件瓷器同时出现两种以上做旧痕迹,基本可以判定为“动过手”。老瓷的旧是“长出来”的,不是“做出来”的。

七、上手怎么练?

  1. 先看整体:在自然光下看釉面光泽是否统一、有没有局部异常
  2. 再看底足:底足的磨损、胎色、包浆是否自然
  3. 再看接缝:器身与底足、器身与器盖的过渡是否自然
  4. 最后看彩:用放大镜看彩料质感和笔触

八、常见的几个误区

  • 误区一:越旧越真——旧是可以做出来的
  • 误区二:有土就是出土——土可以后抹
  • 误区三:底足磨圆就是老——磨圆可以人工做
  • 误区四:有款就是官窑——款可以后加

下一步可以做什么?

  • 去本地市集上手几件开片、冲线的老瓷片,建立釉面光泽的记忆
  • 用放大镜看真品的底足磨损和釉面开片
  • 把每次看到的“可疑件”拍下来,做自己的对比库

Many new buyers judge porcelain by how "old" it looks. But old can be faked, and cheaply. Here are five common ageing techniques — and where to look.

Note: This is about recognising common ageing techniques, not authentication. Final judgement needs body, glaze, mark, painting, and provenance together.

1. Acid washing — dulling new glaze

Weak acid (hydrofluoric) etches the glaze to kill the glassy shine, imitating burial or long use.

  • Old: soft but "live" shine, uneven wear
  • Acid-washed: uniformly dull, like a fog, no variation

2. Soil staining — glue and mud

Glue, mud, and iron rust are smeared on the surface or into cracks to fake burial stains.

  • Old: stains sink under glaze or into the body, natural edges
  • Faked: sits on top, scrapes off, dissolves in water

3. Ground foot — faking wear

Sandpaper or grinding stones round off the sharp foot rim to imitate long use.

  • Old: uneven wear, natural patina
  • Ground: uniform direction, chalky white body exposed

4. Joined foot — old base, new body (or vice versa)

The foot of an old piece is cut off and joined to a new body, or the reverse. The most hidden and damaging trick.

  • Seam: check glaze and body colour match
  • Transition: look for sanding marks or colour difference
  • Weight: top and bottom should feel consistent

5. Repainted decoration — added or touched up

Plain old bodies are painted, or damaged decoration is touched up, to pass as complete polychrome.

  • Pigment: new paint looks glossier or drier than old
  • Brushwork: added strokes don't match the original hand
  • Glaze: under a loupe, check for natural ageing under the paint

6. Five techniques at a glance

Technique Purpose Tell
Acid washKill new shineUniformly dull
Soil stainFake burialSits on top, scrapes off
Ground footFake wearUniform marks, chalky body
Joined footOld base + new bodySeam colour, weight mismatch
RepaintComplete or upvaluePigment and brushwork mismatch
Tip: Two or more ageing signs on one piece = it has been "worked on". Real age grows; it isn't made.

7. How to train your eye

  1. Overall: in natural light, check glaze shine for local anomalies
  2. Foot: wear, body colour, patina
  3. Seams: body-to-foot, body-to-lid transitions
  4. Pigment: use a loupe to check texture and brushwork

8. Common misconceptions

  • Older-looking = real — age can be made
  • Has soil = buried — soil can be added
  • Rounded foot = old — can be ground
  • Has a mark = imperial — marks can be added